Theodore Roosevelt National Park Guide
Theodore Roosevelt National Park protects 70,447 acres of North Dakota badlands along the Little Missouri River, divided into a South Unit near Medora and a North Unit near Watford City about 70 miles to the north. The National Park Service designated it a national park in 1978, though it had operated as a national memorial park since 1947. The name honors Theodore Roosevelt, who ranched in this exact landscape in the 1880s and credited his time in the North Dakota badlands with shaping his conservation philosophy. His Elkhorn Ranch site, preserved within the park on the Little Missouri River north of the South Unit, is accessible by a dirt road that requires high clearance.
What sets Theodore Roosevelt apart from other badlands parks is the wildlife. The South Unit supports a herd of 100 to 120 wild horses that have roamed the park since before it was established, and a bison herd of 300 to 500 animals that is large enough to be reliably visible from the Scenic Loop Drive on most days. This is not a landscape you observe from a distance through a telephoto lens alone. Bison frequently block the road, horses graze within 50 feet of vehicles, and the prairie dog towns visible from pullouts are active enough to spend an hour watching on their own terms.
What to Expect
The North Dakota badlands are a different kind of landscape than most visitors have seen before arriving. The terrain is built from soft sedimentary clay layers: bentonite, shale, and siltstone deposited over tens of millions of years, then carved by the Little Missouri River and its tributaries into a maze of buttes, coulees, and steep-sided ravines. The clay is brilliant in color: reds, purples, grays, and creamy yellows that shift as light changes throughout the day. Petrified wood, some of it spectacular in scale, erodes out of the clay formations and lies exposed on the surface throughout the backcountry.
The South Unit Scenic Loop Drive (36 miles, paved) is the primary orientation tool for first-time visitors. It covers the main overlooks, the prairie dog town at Wind Canyon, the Painted Canyon area (accessible from a separate interstate exit on I-94), and enough badlands terrain to give a clear sense of the landscape's scale. The Painted Canyon overlook, accessible from I-94 Exit 32 with its own visitor center, is one of the most dramatic free-standing roadside viewpoints on the Great Plains: the canyon drops away below the overlook into layered badlands extending several miles to the Little Missouri.
Elevation across the park ranges from roughly 1,700 feet at the river bottoms to 2,855 feet at Buck Hill in the South Unit. This is high plains country: summer temperatures regularly reach 90 degrees Fahrenheit, afternoon thunderstorms are common from June through August, and the clay soils become extremely slick when wet. Hiking after rain is not recommended: bentonite clay sticks to boots in heavy clumps and the trail surfaces become genuinely treacherous on slopes. The best hiking conditions come in September when temperatures moderate, the crowds thin, and the golden light of early fall hits the badlands clay at low angles in the morning and evening.
The North Unit is quieter and often overlooked by visitors focused on the South Unit. Its Scenic Drive (14 miles out-and-back to the Oxbow Overlook) passes through grassland and badlands terrain, and the North Unit supports its own bison herd along with one of the most reliable longhorn cattle displays in the park system (the NPS manages a small longhorn herd in the North Unit as an interpretive program). The Achenbach Trail in the North Unit is among the most demanding and rewarding backcountry routes in the region.
Best Trails
Caprock Coulee Nature Trail
4.4 mi, Loop, Easy-Moderate
The Caprock Coulee trail starts near the north end of the South Unit Scenic Loop and descends into a coulee drainage before climbing back to the rim. The caprock layer of harder sedimentary rock caps many of the buttes in the park, and the trail's name comes from the distinctive capping layer visible on the formations along the route. Prairie dog towns adjacent to the trail are active from spring through fall, and bison and horses use the coulee bottoms regularly in early morning.
The loop is flat on the coulee bottom and moderately steep on the rim ascents, but nothing is technical. The trailhead has an interpretive bulletin board with information on the geological formations visible along the route. Early morning starts (before 8 AM) consistently produce better wildlife sightings than midday visits.
Petrified Forest Loop
10.3 mi, Loop, Moderate
The South Unit backcountry loop to the Petrified Forest is the most significant off-road hiking experience in the park. The trail crosses open grassland and badlands terrain to reach an extensive field of petrified wood, some of it large enough to recognize as former tree trunks. The petrified wood is federally protected: collecting any piece, regardless of size, is prohibited under park regulations.
The loop has no maintained trail in some sections and requires navigation by map and compass or GPS in the open terrain. Carry at least 3 liters of water per person; there is no reliable water source along the route outside of the Little Missouri River, which requires filtration. Backcountry permits are required for overnight camping; obtain them from the South Unit Visitor Center in Medora.
Wind Canyon Trail
0.4 mi, Out-and-Back, Easy
One of the shortest and most rewarding walks in the park. The trail starts from a pullout on the Scenic Loop Drive and follows a half-mile path to a canyon overlook above a bend in the Little Missouri River. The canyon walls below are deeply colored clay in the red-orange-purple range, and the river makes a broad oxbow turn visible from the overlook. At sunset, the light hits the canyon from directly behind the overlook viewpoint and the colors become vivid. Photographers familiar with the park often name this as their primary sunset location in the South Unit.
Achenbach Trail
18.0 mi, Loop, Strenuous
The North Unit's serious backcountry route. The Achenbach loop crosses the Little Missouri River twice (ford required; check water levels at the visitor center before starting), passes through the Achenbach Hills, and covers terrain that sees a fraction of the South Unit's traffic. Cannonball concretions, spherical sandstone formations that erode out of the clay bluffs, are common along this route and found nowhere else in the park in comparable density. Bison are frequently encountered in the North Unit backcountry. A permit is required for overnight camping.
The river ford is the main logistical variable. Water levels in the Little Missouri River vary significantly with season and recent rainfall; the ford is typically knee-deep in mid-to-late summer but can be waist-deep or impassable after heavy rain. Always check current conditions at the North Unit Visitor Center before attempting the Achenbach loop.
Buck Hill Trail
0.2 mi, Out-and-Back, Easy
The walk to the highest accessible point in the South Unit at 2,855 feet. The trail is short and the elevation gain minimal, but the 360-degree panorama from the top encompasses a broad sweep of the badlands extending in every direction. On a clear day, the view extends 30 miles or more. This is a worthwhile stop during the Scenic Loop Drive that requires almost no effort and pays a disproportionate visual return.
When to Visit
Spring (April through May) brings wildflowers to the grassland sections and newborn bison calves to both herds. The badlands clay is often wet and slick in April and early May after snowmelt and spring rains, making off-trail hiking inadvisable. The Scenic Loop Drive is usually clear of snow by mid-April. Temperatures are mild (50-65 degrees Fahrenheit) and the park is not yet crowded. Spring also brings migratory birds through the river corridor: yellow warblers, western meadowlarks, and dickcissels are common from mid-May.
Summer (June through August) is the busiest season. July is the peak month for visitation, with both the South Unit parking areas and the Painted Canyon overlook seeing heavy use on weekends. Temperatures regularly exceed 90 degrees, and afternoon thunderstorms are common. Morning hikes (before 10 AM) make the most of cooler temperatures and avoid the crowds that develop at the main overlooks by late morning. The horses and bison are most active in the early morning and evening hours regardless of season.
Fall (September through October) is the best all-around season for combining hiking and wildlife viewing. Temperatures drop to a comfortable range (60-75 degrees in September, 40-60 degrees in October), the light is lower and more dramatic at the canyon overlooks, and visitor numbers drop sharply after Labor Day. The cottonwood trees in the river bottom turn gold in late September and early October, adding color contrast to the clay buttes. September is widely considered the most photogenic month in the park.
Winter (November through March) brings cold temperatures and occasional snow. The Scenic Loop Drive typically stays open year-round but can close temporarily after significant snowfall. The park is quiet in winter and wildlife is often easier to spot against a snow-covered landscape. The visitor center in Medora has limited winter hours; check nps.gov/thro before planning a winter visit.
Getting There and Logistics
The South Unit is located 1 mile east of Medora, North Dakota, on I-94. From Bismarck, drive 130 miles west on I-94 to Exit 24 (Medora) or Exit 32 (Painted Canyon Visitor Center). The Painted Canyon overlook and its visitor center are accessible from I-94 Exit 32 without paying the entrance fee.
The North Unit is reached via US-85 north from Belfield (accessible from I-94 Exit 42), then north to Watford City and east on US-85 to the North Unit entrance, approximately 15 miles east of Watford City. From Medora to the North Unit entrance is about 70 miles by road.
The entrance fee as of 2026 is $30 per vehicle for a 7-day pass, $25 per motorcycle, and $15 per individual. The America the Beautiful Annual Pass covers the entrance fee at this and all federal fee areas. Veterans and active military should see federal discount passes and veteran benefits for pass options that may eliminate this fee entirely.
The only lodging inside the park is the camping at Cottonwood Campground (South Unit) and Juniper Campground (North Unit). Both are reservable through Recreation.gov; Cottonwood fills quickly in summer. Medora offers hotels, cabins, and the Medora Musical outdoor amphitheater, which packages lodging with entertainment during the summer season. Dickinson (35 miles east) has standard chain hotel options.
Planning Tips
- Both units are worth visiting if you have two days. The South Unit is larger and more varied; the North Unit is quieter and the Achenbach backcountry is outstanding. The 70-mile drive between them is not trivial, but it passes through genuine Great Plains ranch country and includes some decent birding habitat along the Little Missouri.
- The clay badlands soil is essentially impassable when wet. If significant rain has fallen recently, stick to the paved scenic drive and the short rim trails. Attempting off-trail travel or backcountry routes in wet conditions damages fragile soil crusts and is unpleasant and dangerous on the slopes.
- Bison and horses are wild animals. The NPS recommends staying at least 75 feet from bison at all times. Horses may appear domestic in behavior but are not and should not be approached on foot. Both species are faster than they look, particularly bison: a bull bison can run 35 mph. Observe from vehicles or from a respectful distance on the trail.
- Water is scarce in the backcountry. Carry more than you think you need. Individual water needs vary depending on temperature, exertion, and personal physiology; many backcountry visitors carry 3 liters per day in summer conditions. Filter all water from the Little Missouri River before drinking.
- Review what to check before you go for current fire restrictions, road conditions, and ranger alerts before visiting. The park operates under fire restrictions during dry periods in summer, which can affect dispersed camping and open fires.
- The Sheyenne National Grassland in southeastern North Dakota and the Maah Daah Hey Trail adjacent to the South Unit offer complementary North Dakota public land experiences for visitors spending multiple days in the state.
Theodore Roosevelt National Park rewards patience and early mornings. The landscape is at its best in low light, the wildlife is most active before 9 AM and after 6 PM, and the badlands colors are richest when the sun is near the horizon. Plan your drives and hikes around the light and you will see a different park than the one most visitors experience from the midday Scenic Loop Drive. Follow Leave No Trace principles, especially in the backcountry: the soft clay terrain is slow to recover from off-trail travel, and the petrified wood that makes the Petrified Forest remarkable needs to remain in place for the next visitor.