Overview
Lizard Head Pass sits at 10,222 feet on CO-145 between Telluride and Rico, and the trail that begins here moves through the heart of the Lizard Head Wilderness with a character that's different from the more famous routes to the east. The destination is not a lake basin or a summit but rather the full experience of the Lizard Head Wilderness: volcanic spires, open meadows along Bilk Creek, and the concentrated mass of the Wilson Massif rising to the west.
Lizard Head itself is a volcanic neck, a column of phonolite porphyry that stands about 400 feet above the surrounding ridge at 13,113 feet total elevation. It's among the most recognizable rock formations in Colorado, appearing frequently in photography of the San Juans. The technical climbing route on the spire dates to the early 1900s. The trail below provides close-range views without any climbing exposure.
The 7-mile out-and-back gains 1,800 feet, placing it in the moderate-to-hard category. It's less crowded than Ice Lake Basin or the Chicago Basin approach, and hikers looking for an alpine experience in San Juan National Forest without the extreme commitment of those routes often find Lizard Head the right fit.
The Route
Miles 0 to 1.5: Lizard Head Pass to Wilderness Boundary
The trail departs from the CO-145 pullout at Lizard Head Pass and heads north-northwest on a well-marked path through open subalpine terrain. The first mile is a gradual warm-up with good views back toward the Dolores River drainage. Lizard Head comes into view early and stays visible for much of the route. The trail crosses the wilderness boundary at approximately mile 1.5, where a small registration box is present.
Miles 1.5 to 3.5: Bilk Creek Basin
The middle section follows the Bilk Creek drainage through open meadows that are outstanding for wildflowers in mid-July. The trail climbs steadily but not steeply through this section. Wilson Peak (14,017 ft), Mount Wilson (14,246 ft), and El Diente Peak (14,159 ft), the Wilson Massif, come into clear view to the northwest. The rock character changes visibly as you move through the basin; the volcanic geology is evident in the dark, jagged outcrops above the meadow.
Miles 3.5 to 3.6: High Point near Lizard Head
The trail approaches the base of the Lizard Head ridge at roughly 12,100 feet. This is the standard turnaround point for most hikers. From here, the spire looms above and the full panorama of the Wilson Massif is visible. On clear days, the Dolores Peak and Lone Cone are visible to the south and southwest. The vertical rock face of Lizard Head is striking from directly below.
When to Visit
July through September is the standard window. Snow can persist on the upper sections through late June in high-snowpack years, and the pass itself is at 10,222 feet, so conditions can be variable in early season. The trail is generally snow-free by early July.
Afternoon thunderstorms are common in July and August. The upper section of this trail is exposed, and the terrain above treeline offers no shelter. Plan to be heading down by early afternoon on days with building clouds. See checking conditions before you go for NOAA resources specific to the San Juans.
Fall is a strong option for this trail. September brings stable weather, very few other hikers, and excellent visibility. The aspens along the lower CO-145 corridor turn color from late September through mid-October, adding to the scenery on the approach drive.
What to Bring
Many hikers carry:
- 2 liters of water minimum (a filter allows refilling from Bilk Creek)
- Wind and rain shell for the exposed upper section
- Sunscreen and a hat (UV exposure at altitude is significant)
- Snacks and a lunch
Consider bringing:
- Trekking poles for the rocky upper section and the descent
- A camera with decent reach if photographing the spire from below
- Extra layers in September, when morning temperatures at the pass can be near freezing
Individual water and food needs vary. Conditions at 12,000 feet in July can swing from hot and sunny to near-freezing with high winds in under an hour.
Practical Details
No restroom facilities exist at the trailhead. The parking pullout on CO-145 is small, and on busy summer weekends it can fill by 8 a.m. Arriving early is the most reliable way to secure a spot. The road shoulder along CO-145 provides limited additional parking.
Cell service is absent from Lizard Head Pass through most of the wilderness. Download maps in advance and let someone know your planned return time.
Campfire permits are required throughout the forest. The wilderness area above treeline is subject to campfire restrictions during high fire danger; a camp stove is the reliable choice for backcountry cooking. Review Leave No Trace principles for backcountry practices in wilderness areas.
Getting There
From Telluride, take CO-145 south for approximately 15 miles to Lizard Head Pass. The trailhead parking is a small pullout on the right (west) side of the road at the pass summit. It is well-signed but easy to miss; look for the Continental Divide Trail markers and the trailhead sign.
From Cortez, take CO-145 north approximately 45 miles through Dolores and Rico to Lizard Head Pass. The road is paved throughout and accessible to all vehicles. From Durango, take CO-550 north to Silverton, then CO-110 west to CO-145 north (about 75 miles total, roughly 1.5 hours).